A little background: Taza is one of these modern eco-minded food companies, and one of a handful of American eco-friendly / world-friendly / conscience-minded chocolate companies that have sprung up over the last few years. A what a joy they are, each of them with their own distinguishing points, yet all focused on the same thing: making the best chocolate possible.
Now, before I get into a review of this particular bar, there are a few things I'd like to get out of the way about chocolate (I'll put this in its own post too, to serve as some sort of chocolate creed, if you will . . .). Keeping these things in mind will help to clarify my feelings about chocolate in general, which bars I like, which bars I don't, and why:
1. European chocolate is not the best in the world. In fact, most of it is low quality, tasteless, and mass produced from under-developed plants from Africa.
1a. Do not assume greatness because a bar is from Europe
1b. Overall, American chocolate makers, today, are making the best chocolate bars in the world, despite strong competitors from around the world (yes, I said it . . . Belgian chocolate can take a smelly back seat or something, because, in all honesty, most of it sucks). Yes, and I'll say this again and again: American's are leading the chocolate revolution; and, lucky for us, we live just across the bay from where the best chocolate is grown.
2. Bean-to-bar chocolate making is as essential to fine chocolate and chocolate purchasing, as estate wine-making or olive-oil making is to their respective industries.
3. Terroir is important when considering chocolate beans.
4. Fair trade agreements with farmers does make better chocolate—there is no substitute for poorly or improperly fermented beans, akin to (imagine) poorly fermented wine grapes, and fair agreements help to ensure that the farmers put care into their work.
5. Learn about percentages of cacao, the type of bean used in a bar, and the region the beans come from when making a purchase—you'll quickly find out what you like, and how to separate the higher quality items from the marketing ploys and corporate names.
6. Seek out good chocolate, which your local grocery store probably doesn't carry—it's worth it (and I can help . . . I've had pretty much everything).
On to this Taza bar. . . .
I love the idea behind this bar. First off, I really enjoy Taza's chocolate. Their philosophy is great (see link to website above), and their dedication to maintaining Mexican grinding practices when producing their chocolate lends and unforgettable flavor and texture to their bars. And, unlike traditional Mexican chocolate (Ibarra—also the Italian don Puglisi . . . reviews to come), Taza's bars do not have the sugar crystals throughout.
So here's what excites me about this bar, a special edition bar with beans from Chiapas, besides the fact that it's limited edition, something new to try from this brand: the beans are from Chiapas. In truth, of the over 150 chocolate bars I've tasted, there have only been a few crafted from Mexican beans, and even less with beans from Chiapas. I mean, these bars made from Venezuelan beans are a dime a dozen, or thereabout . . . but beans from Chiapas? A true rarity.
There is the easy ones to find, like Askninosie's Soconusco bar (Soconusco is a region in Chiapas). There are the more difficult ones, like bars from Mexico or Cacao Sampaka in Spain (reviews of both to come). And there is also the 2008 Chiapas bar from Taza, which is long gone now, only 1392 being produced. It's only natural, then, that the 2009 Chiapas bar from Taza is of great interest to me. I placed my order for two bars as soon as they became available, and waited patiently for their arrival. And, soon enough, they were on my doorstep, fresh and ready to eat.
On to the bar. Same packaging as last year, looks and smells similar to other Taza bars, but very different from last year's bar . . . this one smells very chocolately, fruity, and very deep. Upon tasting, I really enjoyed this bar. It has deep fruity notes, which are dark and resonating berry-like. It also that wonderful Taza texture that I love—that slight grit which prevents any waxiness—and has a great finish.
Overall, I like this bar. It's good. I wouldn't say that it is great however, nor does it possess any truly unique flavor profiles that I haven't tasted before (contrary to the company's twitter, which suggested flavors yet unknown). Check out Taza's website for more info on the bar. Sadly, to again disagree with them, I do not taste pound cake or pine on the finish. C'est la vie, I suppose.
If I had to rank the bar, I suppose it would be somewhere between the middle and the top. In reference to other bars with Mexican beans, I like Cacao Sampaka's bars much more, and last year's bar better as well. I do think, however, that this bar is better than Askinosie's bar.
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